my friend kate writes in the ‘favorite movies’ section of her facebook page, “movies about food, ang lee…so really, eat drink man woman.” before the elegiac brokeback mountain, the glorious crouching tiger, hidden dragon, the moody the ice storm and even before the dainty sense and sensibility, there was the savory eat drink man woman (飲食男女).
released in late summer of 1994, eat drink man woman, director ang lee’s third feature, tells the story of a semi-retired (master) chef’s relationship with his three daughters: jia-jen, a schoolteacher, is a devout christian and is dangerously close to ‘old maid’ status; jia-chien, the most beautiful of the daughters, is a workaholic and is desperate to escape the confines of the house; jia-ning, a romantic at heart, is a university student who works at wendy’s (which is a rebellious act in and of itself).
i’m a sucker for dramas, particularly family dramas, and eat drink man woman explores the dynamics between the members of a repressed chinese family exquisitely. the sunday night ‘torture’ dinners most exemplify the essence of the chu household: the father puts an elaborate meal of traditional chinese cuisine on the table, where his three daughters sit quietly, unwillingly. barely anyone eats anything before the weekly ritual is over and the food is packaged in tupperware.
the title refers to an old chinese saying that sums up the basic desires of man—food and sex. there is plenty of sex in the movie (it has a transformative power for most of the characters) but the food, the food…
let me describe the food. if costumes are the visual effects in the devil wears prada and the sex & the
city movie, then the food acts as the visual effects in eat drink man woman. the first five minutes of the picture, completely wordless, portrays the extravagant lengths mr. chu goes to to make the sunday dinners. there is steaming, sauteeing, boiling, de-feathering, chopping, smothering, slicing, dicing, stuffing…most reviewers warn viewers not to watch this film on an empty stomach. take heed.
though i’ve made the story sound very chinese-heavy, it’s actually not. one of the screenwriters, james schamus (a longtime collaborater of ang lee), is jewish. he wrote the dialogue in english with jewish characters in mind. then the chinese screenwriters translated the words into chinese, added chinese flavors and changed the names. voila! a universal tale. who doesn’t recognize the sometimes-awkward relationship between fathers and daughters? the things you say. the things you don’t. the things left unsaid. i can certainly relate, and i’m not even a daughter.
lee, who, in his earlier work, usually scrutinizes the cultural gap between chinese-american children and their parents, here inquires into the generational gap between the patriarch and his offspring. the father says, “i don’t understand any of them, and i don’t want to know. let them grow up and leave. it’s like cooking. your appetite’s gone when the dish is done.” this is what the father says, but it is not what he means (because asian people speak in code), especially when it comes to the second daughter.
i and, to a certain extent, the movie identify with jia-chien. she most physically resembles the absent mother, and has the most complicated relationship with the
father. when she was young, mr. chu used to take her to the kitchen and she’d learn culinary techniques from him. as she got older, he pushed her farther and farther away, eventually out of the kitchen. both of them suffered emotional scars from each other. the final scene in the film is between these two characters, and that scene, which comes after 120 minutes of comedic fluff and stifling melodrama, is loaded with emotional payoff.
eat drink man woman is the third, and most sophisticated, film in the “father knows best trilogy” (the others are pushing hands and the wedding banquet). story-wise, it is the most ambitious; there are numerous characters and subsequently, multiple subplots, and the screenplay deftly juggles between comedy and drama. when it comes to technique, eat drink man woman is superior to lee’s two previous efforts. in an interview, lee explained how, due to the success of the wedding banquet, he was allowed freedom to do “real cinematography.” without a question you feel the damp, gloomy atmosphere of the chu family’s house.
i know i’ve rambled on and on about how the film is great, but i believe i’ve made the film sound too dark. it isn’t. while fifty percent of the movie is melodrama, the other fifty percent is light comedy. as the daughters eventually get entangled in romantic relationships, we, the audience, laugh at the situations they are in because the circumstances the girls find themselves in are hilarious and unexpected. also surprising is the (almost) ridiculous family event that occurs in the middle of act III which i will not reveal to you. insanity.
don’t be scared of subtitles (i truly think subtitled films have a greater chance of touching me—the words somehow are more poignant). though eat drink man woman is entirely in mandarin chinese, the story is familiar and sad and true and funny and deep. plus, it shows you how richly amazing chinese cuisine is (none of that panda express bullshit). and it’s ang lee, oscar-winning director! what more can i say? hm…even hollywood took notice of eat drink man woman by remaking it into the subpar tortilla soup. oh, and the theme to sex & the city the series you thought was original? it’s actually part of the original score for this film. how’s that?










