saturday evening i watched the third installment of BBC’s wild china series. from the episode titled ”tibet,” i learned that every year, a pilgrimage takes place at the foot of mount kailash,
a peak in the tibetan himalayas. legend has it that it is the center of the world: “it is located at the heart of six mountain ranges symbolizing a lotus, and the four rivers flowing from kailash flow to the four quarters of the world and divide the world into four regions.” out of respect to buddhist and hindu beliefs, there have been no recorded attempts to climb mount kailash.
thousands of people make a pilgrimage to this spiritual center every year, and walk around (or circumambulate) the mountain once. according to hinduism, shiva, the destroyer of sorrow and evil, resides at top of the peak. by completing a full circle around the mountain, worshipers believe that their sins will be washed away and good luck will follow.
as i watched this ritual play out on my computer screen, for the briefest moment, i pictured myself there. i pictured myself disappearing from my normal life, for a week or so, to make this trip to mount kailash. just one day, disappear, with nary a trace.
this thought seems to confirm my recent bout of dissatisfaction with my life. that sounds dramatic, i know. i’m not depressed, i feel…unsettled. of course i’m not going to hop on a plane to tibet; i’m a dependable son and brother and worker and boyfriend. however, it does disconcert me to know that, well, i wanted to embark on this journey for a split second.
what attracts me to this pilgrimage is the idea that one can shed one’s sins. i don’t think i’m a sinful person. i may think sinful thoughts, but i don’t think i behave in a sinful manner. i try to be a good person, but know fully well that i’m a bad person. that’s not resorting to what’s easy; that’s being honest. essentially, i feel sort of like the giver in the giver. he tells jonas that he’s “so weighted” with the memories of the world. i’m not weighted with sins, or even memories; i’m weighted with emotions.
the thought of trekking around “the pillar of the world” to disburden myself is too fantastic to believe. i am reminded of two scenes, both from wong kar-wai movies, that feature characters who let go of their demons.
the first scene is from happy together, an
insanely gorgeous film that stars tony leung chiu-wai, the late leslie cheung, and chang chen. tony and leslie travel to buenos aires, where they finally end their volatile relationship. tony then meets chang chen and they become friends. chang chen, who is sensitive to hearing (maybe he experiences “hearing-beyond”), offers tony a tape recorder. he tells him that in ushuaia, the capital city of the argentine province tierra del fuego (“the land of fire”), there is a lighthouse at “the end of the world” where people can dump their emotional troubles. at the end of the film, chang chen reaches said lighthouse and plays the cassette tape. all he hears are quiet sobs.
it is a beautiful moment in the film. the main character’s remorse, guilt, loneliness, sorrow…all of those feelings are taken away by the wind. we have endured all that he’s endured, and in that moment, we feel like some of the weight is lessened, like a part of him has been resolved.
the other scene i’m reminded of is equally touching.
in in the mood for love, tony leung chiu-wai (again) has an emotional affair with maggie cheung. both want to continue on with the affair, but both are afraid to. many lonely years pass, and in order for tony to move on, he follows an old tradition:
in the old days, if someone had a secret they didn’t want to share…you know what they did? they went up a mountain, found a tree, carved a hole in it,
and whispered the secret into the hole. then they covered it with mud. and leave the secret there forever.
at the end of the film, we see tony visiting cambodia’s angkor wat. there, he finds a hole in the ancient temple’s walls, puts his mouth to the hole, and whispers into it. we don’t know exactly what he says, but we can guess. his remorse. his guilt. his loneliness. his sorrow.
i remember a recent oprah episode with guest ellen burstyn. burstyn went on the show to talk about the years of abuse she endured when she was younger. she said something that sticks with me: in order for her to overcome her pain-filled past, she had to “re-program” her brain, her software. because she had always been a victim (of her mother’s and husband’s abuse), it was difficult for her to have a healthy relationship with a man; she was always thinking like a victim. it took years of therapy and work in order for her to “re-program” herself into the strong woman she is today. i kind of understand what she means by “re-programming.”
i’ve never been abused. i’ve never had anything really bad happen to me. i’ve been lucky that way. and i’m not equating my problems to people who have suffered death and sickness and violence and poverty; i’m not. all i know is that sometimes, i really feel like i want to become a whole other person. i want to be less afraid of things (did you know that i’m afraid of almost everything?). i want to be a generous person (i am selfish). i want to be an uncomplicated person. for years and years, i thought of myself as this complex, unique individual with success and glory in his trajectory. nowadays, i almost just want to…be ordinary. does that sound like giving up? [or maybe—just maybe—i'm in want of finding that girl, who stands before me in midstream, alone and still, gazing out to sea.]
something in my brain is in need of a jumpstart. confessing my sins (whatever they may be), discarding my fear, taking responsibility for my actions, apologizing to people i’ve wronged (including myself)—these are the things i think i would accomplish if i journey to mount kailash, ushuaia, or angkor wat. it’s a lovely and pretentious thought, isn’t it? i’m perfectly aware that one moment of clarity doesn’t mean that i’ll be “re-programmed” for good or become a completely different person. but wouldn’t that be a most exhilarating start?








